Our goal was to climb the northeast ridge of bugaboo spire, and perhaps the west ridge of pigeon or the southeast shoulder of snowpatch. First climbed in 1916 by conrad kain, it has been a treasured objective ever since. Climb in one of the worlds great alpine rock climbing areas. Bonom and i set off to climb the kraussmccarthy route on snowpatch spire the morning after we arrived. Too enjoyable, really it made us completely overconfident in our abilities to finish routes in a reasonable period of time. The bugs offers a great selection of routes from easy glacier travel and scrambling to some of the longest technical alpine routes of north america. The impressive snowpatch spire is the most obvious spire when entering the bugaboos. Man at scenic campsite, bugaboos provincial park, british columbia.
Bugaboo spire is one of the most phenomenal features in the climbing world. Here you can get some first alpine experiences on classic multi pitch routes like the kain route. Green and bensons bugaboo rock lists 37 routes on the peak. This base camp for climbers operates to reduce visitor impacts on the fragile timberline area below snowpatch spire. On my first trip to the bugaboos, i was 21 and working as a guide. The east face of snowpatch might be the highest concentration of alpine 5. Research the route the best you can before heading up, of course. Snowpatch spire, beckeymather route, first free ascent aac.
Formerly best known as an aidclimbing venue, it is now covered in free routesmostly difficult ones, usually with at least a couple of 5. Part of the purcell mountains in british columbia, canada, the bugaboos are home to some absolutely spectacular rock climbing options. Im breaking it up into a few reports for the individual climbs. Snowpatch route, southeast corner, and wiessners route. A short, but steep hike, brings us to the alpine club of canada s hut. Bugaboos climbing trips with revelstoke mountain guides. This gravel road, which opens late spring through late fall, begins at brisco, 27 kilometres north of radium hot springs or 76 km south of golden on highway 95. View this ascent view this route view all ascents of this route. Bugaboo provincial park is located in southeastern b. The next day, we ascended the two lines, then made the continuous free ascent to the summit, adding four more pitches above our previous high point and sending every pitch first try. But the story twists, bedayn and arnold found the upper headwall to be well within wiessners ability. Divine intervention topo we climbed the sunshine route on snowpatch spire which had lots of fun meatandpotatoes crack climbing. Overall, it was an enjoyable first climb in the bugaboos. Snowpatch spire 10,050 feet this dominant buttress holds over 50 routes from 5.
One of the most spectacular climbing routes in western canada, the kain route up bugagoo spire is a complete classic for experienced climbers. The best and most accesible alpine granite climbing area in canada. The four main spires are bugaboo, snowpatch, pigeon and howser, conveniently they all have routes that have a rating of below 5. It was hard to believe that we had come close to changing our plans at the last minute and going to the wind rivers based on bad weather forecasts. The route begins at the bugaboosnowpatch col and climbs mostly easy fifthclass up a ridge until the crux. Canadian rockies alpine guides the bugaboos, world famous. Kain routei always looked at the black north face of snowpatch spire, and.
The steep walls and ridges of bugaboo, snowpatch and pidgeon spires as well as the howser towers are what hold the attention of most of our guests. The kain route on bugaboo spire has 5 good pitches of climbing, the rest is scrambling and boot kicking in 40 degree snow and ice on the way to bugaboo snowpatch col. Snowpatch spire center left, pigeon spire to the right with the west ridge on its right side. With crowds and the size of the route, its not uncommon for folks to bivy on the rock, on the descent, or at the col. Numerous groundbreaking ascents in canada and alaska include the. A collection of rough and tumble roads that are only recently signed towards the bugaboo provincial parking lot are exciting enough. The hut is equipped with dorm style beds and a kitchen with electricity. For routes on the north face follow the trail from the campground or hut toward the col. A short, but steep hike, brings us to the alpine club of canadas hut. Sep 02, 2016 first trip and some beta to the bugaboos chris september 2, 2016 september 2, 2016 1 comment ahhhh the bugaboos. Backpacking in the bugaboos and our first family glacier traverse i still remember the first time i saw the granite spires of bugaboo provincial park 11 years ago. Alpine rock acmg certified mountain guide in canada and.
Its also a terrific option for less experienced climbers to choose to climb with a guide. The route begins at the bugaboo snowpatch col and climbs mostly easy fifthclass up a ridge until the crux. The bugaboos have several internationally known rock climbing routes. Eddie bauer climbers mason earle and erik leidecker helidropped into the bugs this past fall for climbs of the beckeychouinard, the kain route and a. The bugaboos canadas best destination for alpine rock climbing. Bugaboo spire is one of canada s great peaks and our certified bugaboos rock climbing guide staff this area very well. The gendarme atop the gendarme pitch of the ultra classic. But dont worry, our egos were soon deflated, trampled on, and ground down to glacial dust by the northeast ridge of bugaboo. Not a sustained route by any means, but three stellar granite crack pitches above the cool surfs up ledge make it worthy. After climbing over the col walk south to your desired route. We climbed two classic routes beckeychouinard on south howser and snowpatch route on snowpatch spire. Bugaboos 2007 beckeychouinard, nw ridge hounds tooth. With many peaks over 3,000 metres in elevation, the bugaboos offer awe inspiring mountain and glacier terrain. A very satisfying day, on a fun route with a lot of varied climmbing.
We also wanted to take a peek at the beckeychouinard on south howser tower, but didnt have serious designs on that route. Classic routes, beautiful lines, and stunning summits. Rock climbing routes in snowpatch spire, the bugaboos. Man at scenic campsite, bugaboos provincial park, british columbia, canada. Dec 18, 2015 august 23, 2015 the most inspirational climb this week undoubtedly was will stanhopes send of the tom egan memorial, the free version of an old aid route on the east face of snowpatch spire in canada s bugaboos. Canada, purcell mountains, bugaboos over the last decade or so, the 500m east face of snowpatch spire has been transformed into one of the finest alpine free climbing walls in north america. During my many trips across the bugaboosnowpatch col to climb the classic towerspigeon spires west ridge, bugaboo spires kain routei always looked at the black north face of snowpatch spire, and the striking crack that it held. First trip and some beta to the bugaboos chasing mastery.
Because everybody is doing it, therefore rubbing off the moss and lichen making it look like the obvious way tons of tat left on a chockstone up there, yes we did it too. In peter croft style, cory hall has linked four of the. Bugaboos, british columbia, canada, guided rock climbing. After a couple misstarts, we did some loston snowpatch route, to the left of north tower direct and right of flamingo fling. Snowpatch spire has worldclass hard alpine free routes. The conrad kain hut is maintained by bc parks and the alpine club of canada. The area is also home to two of the famous 50 classic climbs of north america. Overview snowpatch spire is the centerpiece of the bugaboo group.
The area is home to two of the famous 50 classic climbs of north america. Bugging out to the bugaboos, canadas worldclass hiking. Bugaboo adventures 2020 black sheep adventure sports. Climber on beckeychouinard south howser tower, the bugaboos, bugaboo provincial park, british columbia, canada find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with reallife experiences and advice from fellow climbers. First trip and some beta to the bugaboos chris september 2, 2016 september 2, 2016 1 comment ahhhh the bugaboos. The largest wall on snowpatch is the east face with routes ranging from 12 to 15 pitches and almost all of them being big wall in nature.
A pair of rock climbers ascend surfs up, a route on snowpatch spire in the bugaboos, british columbia. The guidebook used in the 1970s gave the route no name at all bill putnam, 1971. Snowpatch spire, east face, new routes aac publications. The east face of snowpatch spire with the line of ascent. This is also a great area for a backpacking trip if you looking for a challenging trip with spectacular alpine scenery. In addition to bugaboo spire, pigeon spire and snowpatch spire, there are many enjoyable adventure mountain climbing routes on other nearby granite spires.
There was no denying it, we were having a great trip. The beckeychouinard south howser spire, west ridge pigeon spire, northeast ridge bugaboo spire, snowpatch and surfs up snowpatch spire attract worldclass climbers. Ive stepped onto the glacier for easier travel in spots, but at least one climber has suffered major injury requiring helicopter evacuation after a crevasse caught him there. Snowpatch spire, beckeymather route, first free ascent. Snowpatch spire, beckeymather route, first free ascent canada, british columbia, purcell mountains, bugaboos after more than 20 seasons in the bugaboos, i wasnt quite sure how much energy i had to devote to my beloved backyard spires. Backpacking in the bugaboos and our first family glacier.
The bugaboos is one place any climber should have the fortune in saying they have been. We climbed two classic routesbeckeychouinard on south howser and snowpatch route on snowpatch spire. Last season, michelle kadatz and i investigated the sector in the bugaboo guidebook where the great flake fell off the lower middle section of snowpatch spire, taking the first three pitches of several routes including les bruines es pentinen, deus ex machina, and the original sunshine wall with it. After how long bugaboo spire ne ridge had taken us, we were worried about how long of a day this would be, so we woke up really early and left camp by 3. We climbed the sunshine route on snowpatch spire which had lots of fun meatandpotatoes crack climbing. During my many trips across the bugaboosnowpatch col to climb the. After gaining the bugaboosnowpatch col, 3rd class scrambling starts up the ridge following trails and cairns. However, this is a serious alpine climb, and further research of the current guidebook. It runs up the left side of the eastern face of snowpatch spire and descends the western face. There are two classic british columbia climbing routes. When you round the final corner on the long and winding logging road and see the full glory of the towering, dark granite spires rising directly out of tumbling glaciers, you will be in awe.
Bugaboos climbing guides professional guided ascents with. Yamnuskas bugaboos climbing guides have extensive knowledge of this area and its climbing routes. The classic view of the east face of snowpatch spire. Rock climbing in snowpatch spire, the bugaboos mountain project. Snowpatch spire, with pigeon spire in the background on the right, hounds tooth and marmolata spire on the left. It is located southwest of the conrad kain hut, across the crescent glacier.
During the 1970s, i often would hear climbers proudly say. Popular guided routes in the bugaboos professional guided. Bugging out to the bugaboos, canada s worldclass hiking and climbing area. Moderate climbing past old pitons on quality rock put us immediately behind another party. The bugaboos are, for many, the holy grail of alpine rock climbing in north america. By this point in the trip, we all felt confident and we scrambled along together unroped, enjoying the movement and the vistas and the company. Snowpatch spire and eastpost rest day snowpatch route 5. Nov 01, 2012 from the summit of snowpatch spire, the bugaboos, british columbia, canada. The bugaboos are perhaps the most picturesque of all alpine climbing destinations in north america.
For a a real day, do the whole route after it meets up with the ne ridge of bugaboo spire, and then carry over and come down the kain route. The largest wall on snowpatch is the east face with routes ranging from 12 to 15. The adventure of the bugaboos starts almost at the highway when you turn off at brisco. While climbing here we will stay at the famous conrad kaine hut. Snowpatch spire click on routes to subscribe to a rss feed of all new routes added to this category. This article about a location in the interior of british columbia, canada is a. Ridge, kains 1st ascent route still has a sting in its tail. Our longrunning best of the bugaboos camp is your opportunity to reach the top of classic summits, get a taste of alpine rock climbing, or come back for another shot at the climbs on.
The kain route on bugaboo spire is one of canadas most iconic alpine climbs. There are both bolted and free routes throughout the group. The current guidebook, bugaboo rock, left one name out. For one day, or multiple days if you cant get enough, this rock climbing adventure in the bugaboos will be an unforgettable experience the scenery in the area is some of the most beautiful in all of canada. Bugaboos guided alpine rock climbing in the bugaboos. This was the line of first ascent up snowpatch spire wasnt climbed until 1940. Bugaboos climbing guides professional guided ascents.
Classics such as west ridge of pigeon spire, the northeast ridge of bugaboo spire, the snowpatch route on snowpatch spire, or the near 800m 5. The bugaboos are a range of steep granite spires sticking out from large glaciers in the purcell subrange of the selkirks of british columbia. For one day, or multiple days if you cant get enough, this rock climbing adventure in the bugaboos will be an unforgettable experience. From the summit of snowpatch spire, the bugaboos, british columbia, canada. Bugaboo spire climbing guide british columbia climbing. Climbing in the bugaboos with garry blevins from andrew yasso on vimeo. Brandon prince descends a route called surfs up rated 5. Already we had bagged bugaboo, snowpatch, and crescent spires and next up was purportedly the best 5. A steep wall of rock, known as a gendarme, creates a technical climbing crux on an otherwise scrambley line. The snowpatch route on spowpatch spire in the bugaboos is a classic if for no other reason in that it is one of the most prominent and visible routes from the kain hut. The bugaboo glacier passes under snowpatchs s face. Access to the mountains is by a twohour drive south and then west of golden, british columbia, half on a paved and half on a dirt road. Join us to explore one of canada s premier alpine climbing destinations classic routes, aesthetic granite lines, stunning summits, majestic glaciers.
Bugaboo alpine rock mountaineering alpine rock in nelson bc. We had planned a september backpacking trip to the conrad kain hut with friends and it was our first visit to this provincial park in the purcell mountains of southeastern british. We were headed up to the bugaboos for a week and a half. If you want to maximize the time spend on rock relative to your approach time, there are much better places for alpine climbing in western canada than the bugaboos. The kaine hut is situated at the base of snowpatch, bugaboo and crescent spires. A familiar trip up the bugaboo snowpatch col and a casual stroll across the upper vowell glacier took us to the base of the west ridge. The bugaboos are a british columbia provincial park in canada s purcell mountains. Bugaboo spire is one of canadas great peaks and our certified bugaboos rock climbing guide staff this area very well. Mar 24, 2015 the towering granite spires of the bugaboos in the purcell range of interior bc are legendary for classic bigwall climbs in a remote and stunning location. Climb bugaboo spire, ne ridge, bugaboo spire trailhead. Brandon prince and nic houser on a route called surfs up rated 5.
The kain route on bugaboo spire is one of canada s most iconic alpine climbs. As height is gained, the route sticks close to the. It stands just to the west of applebee campground and is host to over 50 routes from 5. After just one visit, you will want to return on a yearly basis, alas as the date shows, i have not been there since 2006. Explore canadas premier alpine rock climbing destination. I found pitches 1 and 3 to be easier than the gb says, more like. If, like most people, you enter the bugs via the trail to conrad kain hut, you wont have to ask anyone for directions to snowpatch. Canadian rockies alpine guides the bugaboos, world. With its first ascent in 1940, snowpatch spire mountain peak was the last of the bugaboo spires to be climbed. This trad climb has 6 sends and was recently flashed by ian reston. The bugaboos are a british columbia provincial park in canadas purcell mountains. Sunshine is on the north face, which can be approached by following the trail from the hut about a quarter way up toward the snowpatchbugaboo col to a large, loose ledge. Spires of granodiorite spear upward from a glacial plateau, with icefalls pouring downslope like waves behind a dolphins dorsal fin as it glides through the water.